Guesthouses and simple bungalows
Family-run guesthouses and simple beach bungalows in Kilindoni and Utende, with fans, mosquito nets and home-cooked Swahili food, close to the dive centres and the whale shark boats.
Kilindoni and Utende
Indian Ocean · Tanzania
Mafia Island
A quiet coral island a short flight south of Dar es Salaam, with Tanzania's first marine park, some of the healthiest reefs on the East African coast and whale sharks in its waters from October to March. Slower and wilder than Zanzibar, and a natural end to a southern safari.
Tripadvisor
Travelers' Choice Awards
October to March for whale sharks
Marine park of 822 km²
30 to 40 min flight from Dar es Salaam
Whale sharks, diving, Chole Island
Mafia Island: Tanzania's Quiet Island of Reefs and Whale Sharks
Mafia is the largest island in the Mafia Archipelago, lying off the Rufiji River delta about 120 km south of Dar es Salaam. Around 49 km long and 17 km wide, it is an island of coconut palms, cashew trees, mangroves and small fishing villages, with none of the big resorts found further north. Tourism is small and low-key, and most of the island's lodges sit around Chole Bay on the southeast coast. The real treasure is under the water. Mafia Island Marine Park, established in 1995 as Tanzania's first marine park, protects 822 km² of coral reef, seagrass beds, mangrove forest and open sea. More than 400 species of fish live on its reefs, along with green and hawksbill turtles and dolphins, and the rare dugong is still occasionally recorded in the channel toward the Rufiji delta.
Between October and March, whale sharks gather off Kilindoni on the west coast to feed on plankton, and Mafia is one of the most dependable places in the world to swim alongside them. The rest of the year, diving and snorkelling in Chole Bay and on the outer reef stay excellent, and the island's history, from the Omani-era ruins on Chole Island to the old town of Kua on Juani, gives quieter days a sense of place. Mafia is easy to add to a safari in southern Tanzania. Flights reach it from Dar es Salaam in 30 to 40 minutes, with light-aircraft connections to Zanzibar and the southern parks, which makes Nyerere National Park or Ruaha followed by Mafia's reefs a natural bush and beach combination.
Things to Do on Mafia Island
Days on Mafia follow the tide and the weather. Mornings are for the water, when the sea is calmest, and afternoons for a dhow trip, a walk through a village or simply the veranda. Nothing here is rushed, and that is the point.
Swimming with whale sharksFrom October to March, small boats leave Kilindoni to find whale sharks feeding near the surface. You snorkel alongside them with a guide, under a code of conduct that limits boats and keeps a respectful distance.
Scuba divingChole Bay's sheltered reefs suit beginners and courses, while Kinasi Pass and the outer reef wall offer drift dives, big groupers and turtles for experienced divers.
Snorkelling and sandbanksDhow trips to coral gardens and to sandbanks that rise at low tide, with snorkelling, a beach picnic and fresh grilled fish.
Chole Island ruinsA short boat ride across the bay, Chole Island holds the ruins of a 19th-century Omani trading town, wrapped in strangler figs, and a lively village. At dusk, large fruit bats leave their roosts.
Turtle nestingGreen and hawksbill turtles nest on beaches around Juani and the southern islands. In season, you may be able to join a local conservation team to watch hatchlings reach the sea.
Mangrove kayakingPaddle the mangrove channels around Chole Bay and Juani at high tide, with kingfishers, herons and crabs for company and the island's quiet all around you.
The Best Time to Visit Mafia Island, and When the Whale Sharks Arrive
Mafia has two dry seasons and two rainy seasons, and the whale sharks follow their own calendar. Most visitors plan around one of two things: swimming with whale sharks, or the best conditions for diving.
October to March: The whale shark season. Whale sharks feed off not far from the coast at Kilindoni, with the most reliable encounters usually from November to February. The sea is warm and generally calm, and also there are short rains in November and December that tend to fall as brief showers.
April and May: the long rains. Heavy rain and rougher seas, and many lodges close for part of this period. We do not recommend visiting now.
June to September: cool and dry. Pleasant temperatures and good visibility on many reefs, though the southeast trade winds can make the outer reef choppy. Whale sharks are generally absent, but humpback whales sometimes pass offshore from around August.
Because Mafia's weather differs from Zanzibar's and from the parks inland, we plan the island around what you most want to do in the water, then fit the safari around it. For rainfall by month, see our Tanzania weather guide. Let us know which time suits you best and we will plan your trip to this magical island. →
Where to Stay on Mafia Island
View All accommodations
Beach lodges on Chole Bay
Relaxed lodges with thatched bandas on the sand, their own dive centres and dhow trips from the beach. Comfortable, friendly and right on the marine park.
Utende, Chole Bay
Island hideaways
A handful of exclusive lodges on the quiet edges of Chole Bay and the smaller islands, with private stretches of beach, open-sided rooms and boat trips arranged around you.
Chole Bay and nearby islands
Safaris with Mafia Island, Tailored to You
Mafia is usually added to the end of a southern safari. Start with one of these trips, then work with a local planner to add the island, change the pace or extend your stay.
Mafia Island Questions We Get Most Often
When is whale shark season on Mafia Island?From October to March, with the most reliable encounters usually from November to February. Whale sharks are wild animals, so sightings are never guaranteed, but in season most trips find them.
How do I get to Mafia Island?By air from Dar es Salaam in about 30 to 40 minutes, with light-aircraft flights also linking Mafia to Zanzibar and the southern safari parks. A slow ferry runs from Nyamisati on the mainland, but most visitors fly.
Mafia Island or Zanzibar: which is better?They suit different trips. Zanzibar has Stone Town, long white beaches like Kendwa and far more choice of hotels. Mafia is quieter and wilder, with better diving and whale sharks, but fewer powder-white beaches and a much smaller choice of places to stay. If the reefs matter most, choose Mafia.
How many days should I spend on Mafia Island?Three nights is a good minimum: a whale shark morning, a day of diving or snorkelling, and time for Chole Island. Four or five nights let you relax and allow for a day when the sea is too rough to go out.
Is Mafia Island good if I do not dive?Yes. Sheltered coral gardens and sandbanks in Chole Bay are easy to reach by dhow, and swimming with whale sharks is done with a mask and snorkel, not scuba.
Can I combine Mafia Island with a safari?Yes, and it works best with the southern parks. A few nights in Nyerere National Park followed by Mafia is one of the easiest bush and beach trips in Tanzania, and the island also combines well with Mikumi or Ruaha.
Is there a marine park fee on Mafia Island?Yes. Visitors staying in or entering Mafia Island Marine Park pay a daily park fee. We include it in your quote so there are no surprises on arrival.